Hornet F1 Tunnel Hull Mods And Test Runs

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RCFF-DiehardRC: I got the outboard drive from Fullers Fast Electric. Please check the links in the video information bar below the video. The Fullers lower leg unit comes with the flex shaft and prop shaft and swivel mount already installed If you have any questions be sure to ask Ray Fuller on ebay before ordering, he is always a great help.

Mick Bet: hello where did you get the parts to make the outbaord

Frank Kjøllefjord: Ok thanks for replying :) I've been able to sort out my locking screws problem... finally. What do you suggest to do to extend the drive time on my boat, is it is now i run a 1.11V 3S 2200mAh which give me 8 - 10 min. run time. The ESC is water-cooled 50A so i guess i can upgrade some, just wondering if it will be worth it.

RCFF-DiehardRC: This boat comes stock with an outboard setup. There was no motor or drive hardware mounted inside the hull when I got it. I just upgraded to a better outboard unit.

Frank Kjøllefjord: Hi Frank what did you do with the motor and parts inside? I own a Dragon Tamoil F1 that look very similar to your boat, inside my boat it's impossible to do anything as i think the parts was put inside before the hull was placed around it. Also the sleeve that is suppose to connect the motor and propeller shaft drive me nutz... the locking screws will simply not lock the axels in place (i end up breaking the allan holes in them. Thus i'm looking to outboard it now

RCFF-DiehardRC: Angled down 1 or 2 degrees with the prop center line even with the bottom ride surface of the boat.

Natalia Saavedra: ok thanks. How did you angle your boat with this new mount? Did you raise the motor up or down?

Anuar Razak: Thanks - But it is going to be a bit difficult to find a 1600kv with a shaft size of 3.175mm - Don't think HK carry any of those

RCFF-DiehardRC: We haven't tested the Sprint F3 so can only give suggestions on that one. I think it is smaller than the Hornet F2 so you may be more limited as to what you can run. If you are going for 6s keep the motor kv rating around 1600kv.

Anuar Razak: Frank - have you tested the new Sprint F3 ?The stock motor is a 3000kv on a 3s -.Any suggestion for an upgrade to a 6s

RCFF-DiehardRC: The motor mount allows adjustment of the motor angle and height to fine tune the ride additude of the boat. My boat hooks like yours if I turn too sharp too fast. You can stop this by putting an inward angled turn fin under the hull against the right side sponson at about the cg. Or you could just adjust dual rates in the steering on your radio so you don't turn so sharp.

Natalia Saavedra: nice video and boat. what did the adjustable motor mount do for you? did it make the boat turn better? My boat tends to hook and spin out. maybe im turning it too hard in a tight circle.

RCFF-DiehardRC: Not sure which shaft you are talking about. If you mean the 5mm motor shaft it is the stock one only cut shorter to fit in the lower leg. If you mean the flex shaft or prop shaft at the bottom of the drive, I was using the stock ones that come with the Fullers Fast Electric lower drive leg. You can find them on Ray Fullers ebay site. You can find a link in the video information bar below the video.

Simon Clements: Hi Frank, I've copied your mods, except I got the large aluminium leg. It went ok on 3s and is very quick on 6s. However the 5mm shaft has broken on at the coupling on only the second speed run. I was using a 40mm aluminium propellor. The sales guy reckons 6s is way to much. What shaft are you using?

steg140: thank you very much, you have been very kind

RCFF-DiehardRC: Yes, and you just answered all your own questions.

steg140: thank yo so much for your answers! so if I could find a 28mm motor with a maximum of 1400kv I may have my problem solved? I guess the stock one was defective then or it should have not burned..am I right? I saw your first run when the boat was stock and it seemed everything was allright...

RCFF-DiehardRC: Well I see your problem clearly now. 4800kv is about 3.5 times more than the stock motor which is 1400kv. The stock prop is way to big and that is what killed the second motor. Your lucky if you didn't burn the esc too! If you are going to run a 28mm diameter motor with the stock prop you will need to stay around 1400kv. If you want to run a high kv motor, you can go up to 2800kv but would need to go down to a 35mm prop.

steg140: thanks! I'll try describing you a few more things, maybe you can help. in both the cases the boat ran with a 3 cell 5000mAh li-po battery and the cooling was perfectly working (I did the adjustments you did in your first videos so I could see the water coming out), in the first run with the stock esc, in the second one with a 30A new one. when the boat runs the propeller is near the surface, the second motor was a 4800kv. cheers

RCFF-DiehardRC: Could be a lot of differnt things.Examples: New motor kv is too high for stock prop size, not getting good water flow for cooling, prop shaft not lubed well and is binding, running too many battery cells for the setup, the prop is too deep and causing too much load, the drive angle is wrong and causing the boat to plow which makes the motor have to work too hard. Check all these things
Hornet F1 Tunnel hull mods and test runs 5 out of 5

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Hornet F1 Tunnel hull mods and test runs